Horton Plains - the beauty of the cloud forest

Sri Lanka’s central highlands are a region of remarkable natural beauty, home to a diverse range of ecosystems. In my view, the crown jewel of this highland landscape is Horton Plains National Park—a stunning plateau encircled by some of the highest peaks in the country. #hortonplains

Image 1: View of the 'Piduruthalagala' mountain range in the distance on your way to the summit of 'Kirigalpoththa'.

Situated at the roof of Sri Lanka, the Horton Plains plateau—also known as Maha Eliya Plains (මහ එළිය තැන්න)—plays a vital ecological and environmental role. Lying at an altitude of 2,100 metres above sea level, it spans over 3,169 hectares, forming the highest tableland on the island. Its extraordinary location, nestled in the shadow of Sri Lanka’s second and third highest peaks—Kirigalpotta (2,395 m) and Totapolakanda (2,357 m)—makes it not only a geographical marvel within the country but a site of global significance. This unique landscape, coupled with its rich biodiversity and high number of endemic species, earned Horton Plains its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Image 2: View of the cloud cover below the plateau.

For anyone serious about birdwatching in Sri Lanka, Horton Plains is an absolute must-visit. Many species found here are not only endemic to the island but are also most easily observed within this very park. With its enchanting mix of cloud forest, wild grasslands, rocky outcrops, marshes, and mist-covered ponds, Horton Plains stands out as one of my favourite national parks in the country, both for its biodiversity and its breathtaking natural beauty.

Image 3: Baker's Falls inside the park.

In my opinion, the best birdwatching experience at Horton Plains lies off the beaten path—by venturing towards ‘World’s End’ and continuing along the rugged trail to the summit of Kirigalpoththa Mountain. This 6 km trek winds through patchy cloud forest and open grasslands, with the final 2 km presenting a challenging ascent to the peak. However, for those with the stamina, the journey is well worth the effort. It’s advisable to travel in a group, as the trail becomes faint and hard to follow in several sections. Only a small number of visitors attempt this route. When I took it during a long weekend, despite the park being quite busy, just one other group set off on the Kirigalpoththa trail, leaving me in near solitude for most of the hike.

Image 4: View from the summit of Kirigalpoththa is breathtaking. My clumsy attempt at a panorama does not do any justice to its beauty.

The most cherished bird photograph I’ve taken to date was captured at Horton Plains. It features the striking Yellow-eared Bulbul, an endemic species that resides and breeds in Sri Lanka’s highlands. Classified as 'Near Threatened', this iconic bird perfectly embodies the rugged beauty of Horton Plains, serving as a symbol of the park’s unique biodiversity.

The distinctive high-altitude forests and plains of Horton Plains are home to a remarkable variety of bird species, many of which are endemic to Sri Lanka. Of the 32 endemic bird species found across the island, it is said that around 20 can be spotted in this park alone. During my visits, I’ve been fortunate enough to encounter the following endemic species at Horton Plains.

Dull-blue Flycatcher

Dull-blue Flycatcher

Sri Lanka Bush Warbler-Male

Sri Lanka Bush Warbler-Female

Yellow-eared bulbul

Among all the sightings, photographing the Sri Lanka Bush Warbler was a real highlight. These elusive birds are notoriously shy, spending most of their time flitting through the dense undergrowth of the cloud forest, hidden in shadow. Capturing a clear image required a great deal of patience and quiet anticipation. I’ve yet to encounter the famed Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush—another rare and secretive species that calls Horton Plains home—but it remains high on my list for future visits.

Many other bird species can be seen at Horton Plains. My captures include:

Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher

Pied Bushchat

Great Tit

Great Tit

Zitting Cisticola

Pied Bushchat

Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike

Zitting Cisticola

Zitting Cisticola

Paddyfield Pipit

One of the most unforgettable encounters I’ve ever had in the wild took place at the summit of Kirigalpoththa. After the demanding climb, I was sitting down to catch my breath and take in the panoramic views when I suddenly heard a sharp, rushing sound—like an aircraft slicing through the air at high speed. It was a quick, unmistakable ‘whoosh’. Looking up, I caught sight of a Shaheen Falcon streaking across the sky. After a few swift flybys, it settled gracefully on the edge of a nearby cliff. I suspect there may be a nest tucked somewhere among the rocky outcrops near the peak. Witnessing one of the world’s fastest birds in its natural element, and at such close quarters, was nothing short of exhilarating—an awe-inspiring reward for the effort it took to reach the summit.

In addition to birds, Horton Plains is a paradise for mammals, insects, and reptiles.

Early in the morning, just as I was entering Horton Plains National Park, I had an incredibly rare and unexpected encounter. There, by the edge of a waterway, was a Sri Lankan subspecies of the Eurasian otter (Lutra lutra nair)—a near-threatened species and a truly elusive sight in the wild. I had never seen one so close before, and the experience was nothing short of extraordinary. Unfortunately, capturing quality footage proved to be quite a challenge. With only my telephoto lens at hand and the otter constantly on the move, I managed to record a short video, but its quality doesn't quite do the moment justice. Nevertheless, the sighting itself remains a special memory and a highlight of my visit.

A journey to Horton Plains National Park is nothing short of an adventure into the wild heart of Sri Lanka. From the moment you step into the mist-laden cloud forest, you're transported into a world where nature reigns supreme. Twisted, ancient trees loom out of the fog, rolling hills stretch into the horizon, and clouds drift in suddenly, cloaking the landscape in an eerie, dreamlike haze. Crystal-clear streams wind through wild grasslands, while sheer cliffs—some plunging over 1,200 metres—remind you just how rugged and untamed this plateau truly is. Add to that the breathtaking vistas from the peaks and the park’s extraordinary biodiversity, and you have one of the most thrilling and rewarding treks Sri Lanka has to offer.