Jewel of the North - Jaffna
- Nirmal Kumarasiri
- Feb 14, 2019
- 6 min read
Updated: May 1
A novice's log of adventure to #Jaffna #birdsoflanka
Having grown up with over two decades of news filled with war and unrest in the North, Jaffna has always been an enigma to me—a distant land wrapped in mystery, history, and a sense of the unknown. It stirred a strange, unshakable curiosity in my mind, as if it belonged to another world within my own country. When I finally had the time and means to visit, that quiet fascination only deepened. Jaffna revealed itself as a place of profound beauty and singular character, truly a unique gem within the borders of my small island.
As I crossed the causeway linking Pooneryn to the Jaffna peninsula, an arid, flat landscape—recently rejuvenated by rains—unfolded before me. (The journey from Mannar to Jaffna is detailed in a separate post: "Mannar again and the road to Jaffna") This region, shaped by a shallow continental shelf that cradles a beautiful chain of connected islands, offers a landscape unlike any other in Sri Lanka. The vast, shallow lagoons stretch endlessly across the horizon, forming ideal habitats for aquatic birds. Its geographic proximity to the Indian subcontinent further enhances its appeal to migratory waders, making this a haven for birdlife and a paradise for birdwatchers.
With just 2.5 days to explore the stunning landscape of Jaffna and having arrived on Thaipongal day, I wasted no time immersing myself in the region. The first day was dedicated to island hopping across the Jaffna peninsula, discovering the charm of its remote shores. The second day was entirely devoted to exploring Chundikulam National Park, a haven for nature and wildlife. On the third morning, I set off to Delft Island, specifically in search of the elusive Indian Courser—an extraordinary bird that can only be found here.
The causeways linking the small islands to the Jaffna peninsula offer stunning views of the continental shelf, making them not only scenic routes but also excellent spots for birdwatching. During my journey from Jaffna township to Casuarina Beach, located on the island of Karaitivu, I encountered several small, shallow lakes that were teeming with migrating ducks. These tranquil water holes provided perfect opportunities to observe these elusive creatures up close. Among them, the Northern Pintails stood out with their striking beauty, graceful and delicate, adding a touch of elegance to the serene landscape.
While the beaches of Jaffna are renowned for their natural beauty, I must admit that I wasn’t particularly impressed by either Casuarina Beach or Kankesanthurai Beach (KKS Beach). Both were marred by pollution, with discarded plastic and garbage left behind by fishermen and visitors alike, detracting from their otherwise idyllic charm. Additionally, the water was a bit too cold for my liking. I was later informed that this is typical for the season, and that at other times of the year, the sea is calm, warm, and inviting—a far more pleasant experience for those seeking a swim.
Further down the peninsula, on Kayts Island, the story is quite different. Sheltered from the prevailing winds, the sea here becomes remarkably tranquil. While the calm waters aren’t ideal for swimming, they offer an entirely different kind of beauty, especially at sunset. As the sun dips below the horizon, the soft, shallow waters reflect the warm hues of the sky, creating a breathtaking scene that is nothing short of magical.
The drive along the northernmost road, stretching from Ponnalai to Kankesanthurai, proved to be a birdwatcher’s paradise. The route was teeming with a variety of species, each offering a glimpse into the vibrant avian life that thrives in this region. The drive itself was scenic, with the landscape unfolding in its raw, natural beauty. One of the most memorable moments of the journey came when I encountered an Eurasian Hoopoe. It perched nearby, allowing me to capture some stunning photographs—a perfect snapshot of the serene wildlife along the road.
After a great day of island hopping and exploring beaches, the sunset over Kayts was breathtaking.
Exploring Chundikulam National Park on your own is not advisable. Unlike other national parks in Sri Lanka, access to Chundikulam is far from straightforward. The roads are poorly marked, and there’s still a significant military presence in the area, making navigation even more challenging. The access roads are in poor condition, and if, like me, you don’t speak Tamil, finding your way around can be particularly difficult.
Given these challenges, I sought the help of a local expert to guide me through this unique landscape. Srisaravanapavan Kajenthiran, a passionate birding enthusiast from Jaffna, came to my aid. He runs a small tour guiding business and can be found on social media under the page 'Birds of Jaffna'. With his assistance, I was able to navigate the park and experience its beauty. Chundikulam lies along the narrow neck of the Jaffna peninsula, nestled between the sea, lagoons, and sandbars. This secluded jungle patch, with its shallow lagoons and dense forests, provides a perfect haven for birds, making it an exceptional spot for birdwatching.
After about a 40 minute drive from Jaffna city, We arrived to the outskirts of Chundikulam with the early morning light.
Once inside the park, you can drive along the main road that runs parallel to the sea. It's a birding paradise.
One of the standout captures from my trip was of a female Plaintive Cuckoo (Hepatic Morph). These were my very first photographs of cuckoos, and I couldn’t have been more thrilled. When we first spotted the bird and began taking photos, we had no idea what we were looking at—the Hepatic Morph threw us off entirely. Her striking appearance didn’t match any cuckoos in our field guide, leaving us puzzled. It wasn’t until we sent the photos to an expert that we were able to identify her.
While, at certain times of the year, a sturdy 4x4 vehicle can navigate the narrow lagoon channel that separates the main road from the coastline, crossing was impossible in January, especially after the rains. The water levels had risen, making the passage impassable and leaving the road completely cut off.
To explore the rest of the park, we had no choice but to retrace our steps back to Pachchilapalli, cross Elephant Pass, continue through Paranthan, and then make our way to Visuamadu before finally re-entering the national park. With plenty of time to spare during the midday heat, I decided to take the detour, even though it meant a good 1+ hour drive. In hindsight, I feel it was a bit of a wasted effort, as the landscape along the way was largely unchanged. I certainly won’t be making that round trip again on my next visit.
As the sunset over Visuamadu, we made our way back to Jaffna. It was an super day of off-roading, adventure and birding.
The final day of my Jaffna adventure was truly special, as I was in pursuit of one particular bird—the Indian Courser, which can only be found on the unique island of Delft. To reach Delft, I took the ferry from Kurikadduwan Jetty. The first ferry departs at 8 AM, and you can drive up to the jetty, park your vehicle, and then hop on the ferry. Operated free of charge by the Sri Lankan Navy, this service is generally reserved for island residents, but after a quick conversation with the Navy personnel, they kindly allowed me to board. The one-hour ferry ride to Delft was smooth, and I must say, I was quite impressed with the quality of the service.
Delft is a truly unique destination, one with a character all its own. Its isolation, arid landscape, and rich history make it a must-visit spot for anyone exploring Jaffna. Despite being a small island, navigating Delft and tracking down the elusive Indian Courser can be a challenge without local guidance. Upon arriving, you'll be greeted by a cluster of taxi (3-wheeler) drivers, each offering various packages. Since there are no other transportation options, it’s important to speak with a few to get a sense of what they can provide.
I was fortunate to meet Sugi, a local driver who immediately understood exactly what I was after. He knew the island inside and out, and, more importantly, knew where to find the birds. We set off in his 3-wheeler, and before long, the Indian Coursers of Delft began to appear, marking the beginning of a truly unforgettable experience.
Managed to see a few of the famous Delft wild horses during my gallivanting around the island.
With the mission accomplished, I found myself back at the jetty by midday, ready to catch the ferry and begin the long journey back to Colombo. As I looked back at the island, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for having experienced such a remarkable place. Delft is truly one of the hidden treasures on this beautiful planet—rich in nature, history, and quiet wonder. I have no doubt I’ll return someday, eager for more.
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